Leather has been used to make clothes and other consumer products for 7000 years in our culture. That's a lengthy history of leatherwork. The leather fad is here to stay, but how long will your items last? The quality of leather varies from one manufacturer to the next. Understanding the differences between the five varieties of leather can assist you in making the best purchase decision, whether you are purchasing a leather watch strap, backpack, or handbag. Our leather articles explain the five different types of leather, typical leather styles, tanning processes, how to recognize the difference between leathers, and how to care for your leather items.

The five distinct grades of leather are generalizations; in actuality, there are as many leather grades as there are tanneries in the world, or at least an unlimited number of them. To put it another way, these are the most prevalent methods of "grading" leather. In actuality, the designations reflect more on the way the leather has been split and handled on the surface than on actual "grades." However, these variances have an effect on how well a leather item performs and looks as a whole. As a result, "grades of leather" is a popular term used to describe them.

Key Takeaways

• Full grain and corrected grain leather are the only two premium grades of leather, both coming from the top cut of the hide and offering the best durability and aging characteristics.
• Natural imperfections and markings in leather are actually signs of quality, not defects, and contribute to the unique character of genuine top-grain leather products.
• The term "Genuine Leather" is often a marketing tactic and actually indicates a lower quality product made from split grain leather.
• Bonded leather, while the cheapest option, is mostly synthetic and should be avoided for any products intended for long-term use.
• The quality of leather can be assessed by its feel, appearance of natural characteristics, and ability to develop a patina over time.

Understanding Cowhide

The thickness of all cowhides (sometimes referred to as rawhide) is between 6mm and 10mm. This material's thickness makes it unsuitable for most applications, including wallets and book covers. In other words, it's divided into pieces you can use. Here's an illustration of how a cowhide is divided into top and bottom cuts after it has gone through a splitter.

Processing of Cowhide

Understanding types of leather and grades of leather is essential in the leather industry. When placing our natural leather purchase, we indicate the desired leather thickness for quality leather production. Most of our high-end products are made from full-grain leather that is 1.2-1.6mm thick, maintaining the natural grain and complete grain of the original hide.

Each leather hide undergoes a specific tanning process at the tannery. The animal hides, while still wet, need to be divided to achieve the final leather quality and uniform appearance. This process involves both Chrome tanning and vegetable tanning methods. If the leather isn't split and shaved, the weights (thickness) will be uneven throughout the surface layer, and the tanning agents, dyes, and/or waxes will not effectively enter the leather during the retan/color/fatliquoring step.

During the initial processing, they remove the hide off the animal and shear off the top portion, preserving the outermost layer with its natural markings and natural beauty. We use this premium leather, which develops a beautiful patina over time, to manufacture our leather goods. The bottom cut becomes split leather, used for lesser quality products. This split-grain leather often requires extensive processing and may be turned into corrected-grain leather or genuine leather products of lower quality grade.

The leather quality chart typically shows a wide range of options, from full-grain and top-grain leather at the premium end to split leather and bonded leather at the lowest quality level. Natural imperfections and cosmetic variances in the grain leather texture contribute to its incredible character, making each piece of leather unique. Through minimal processing, the natural appearance of the hide remains intact, ensuring a quality product that will develop a rich patina with use.The Classification of Leather Grades

Grading leather is not governed by any recognized standards. The majority of tanneries grade their leather primarily on aesthetic flaws rather than actual quality. However, we may divide leather into three general leather types based on the way a hide is polished and the part of the cowhide that is utilized. Manufacturers and merchants alike utilize these leather classifications as a means of interchangeability throughout the business.

Basic Grade Categories

The grades of leather are as follows (listed in order of quality):

• Top Grain Leather, which includes:
• • Full Grain Leather
  • Corrected Grain Leather
• Split Grain Leather (sometimes called "Genuine Leather")
• Bonded Leather

Full Grain Leather

A full grain piece of leather has the entire grain visible on one side. Except for the removal of the hair (in nearly all cases), the surface has remained untouched. Natural imperfections like scars, blemishes, bug bites, branding, and stretch marks may be present in this leather. However, these blemishes are regarded as the distinguishing feature of high-quality leather items.

Characteristics of Full Grain Leather

• Marbling or fat wrinkles that look like shaded bands
• Variations in the grain and coloring
• Scars and "imperfections"
• Pigments and dyes will often be in varying shades across the leather
• In some leathers, hair follicles are present and can be seen

Properties and Benefits

It's a common misconception that natural markings and types of leather markings are "defects" in leather grades. Instead, think of them as evidence of natural origin and that life exists on Earth. The animal hide's history, including insect bites and cosmetic variances, is reflected in these marks. When genuine leather lacks these natural imperfections, it usually implies it is of lesser quality or even the lowest grade of leather. Among the various types of leather, full-grain leather stands out in the leather industry for its complete grain and natural beauty. This high-end product has the advantage of being able to shed moisture because of its porous structure, unlike synthetic leather or faux leather. The natural grain and outermost layer remain intact with minimal processing, unlike other grades of leather that undergo extensive processing.

Over time, moisture and oils will be absorbed by the leather due to handling, contributing to a beautiful patina. The rich patina on this quality leather is going to be stunning, developing dramatic patina through natural use. Full-grain leather, being the real deal among leather types, has a long-lasting quality that surpasses corrected-grain leather or bonded leather. Because the grain is still whole, with the original hide and surface layer untouched by any sanding process or corrective process, the actual leather fibers inside it add to the overall strength of the product. Whether used in leather furniture or leather belts, there are several cases where the threads used to sew a leather product together outlast the product itself, especially when compared to split-grain leathers or leather scraps bound with polyurethane adhesive.

Common Uses and Types

Types of leather vary widely, but full-grain leather is frequently utilized in high-end products that cater to affluent clients and fans of leather goods who want to leave their imprint on a product through patina. This quality leather, known for its natural grain and durable leather characteristics, maintains the original hide's natural markings and complete grain structure.

Vegetable Tan Leather

Vegetable Tan Leather, one of the common types of leather produced using natural tannins, represents a premium leather category. There's a good chance you've seen this style of leather before in leather furniture and leather belts. Because it lacks a protective finish, it's famously difficult to deal with - a contentious issue with leather workers. When exposed to the elements, it develops a rich patina like crazy, quickly turning dark brown and creating incredible character. This natural leather absorbs everything in its path, making it distinct from other grades of leather like top-grain leather or genuine leather products.

Corrected Grain Leather

Corrected Grain leather comes up next on my grades of leather list. Corrected Grain is a hotly debated topic among leatherworkers and leather products enthusiasts alike since many believe it to be inferior to full grain. Corrected Grain and Full Grain come from the same portion of the cow's skin. When it comes to leather splits, some people think that "top grain" and "full grain" are interchangeable terms for the same type of leather, however, this is incorrect.

Understanding Corrected Grain

In layman's terms, it implies that this leather comes from the very top of the hide after it is split. The entire grain is divided into the same part like this. So what makes Corrected Grain leather different from Full Grain leather? In a nutshell, tanneries will remove "imperfections" or make different degrees of repairs to obtain a desired appearance or usefulness. Many large manufacturers (particularly in clothing and footwear) cannot have cosmetic variations in their product - so they use top grain leathers for quality, but also to have a constant look in their leather products.

Characteristics of Top Grain Leathers

Understanding the various types of leather and grades of leather is essential when evaluating leather quality. Top-grain leather, which sits between full-grain leather and genuine leather in the leather quality chart, undergoes specific processing that affects its characteristics.

During the tanning process and sanding process, the outer layer is modified to achieve a uniform appearance. As sanding and pigmentation hide these natural imperfections and cosmetic variances, marbling and fat wrinkles become less noticeable. The natural grain and original grain patterns, including natural markings like insect bites, are typically altered.

Grain and color differences in this type of leather are no longer visible after the correcting process. While scars and "imperfections" are sometimes sanded away during the buffing process, this results in a smooth surface that many find appealing. Colors are frequently the same, with no variety or depth to them, unlike full-grain leather which develops a beautiful patina over time.

The protective finish makes this leather resistant to stains/spills, though it offers less breathability compared to natural leather. The surface layer typically has a somewhat waxy feel, different from the soft texture of aniline leather or the velvet-like surface of Nubuck leather.

This leather quality, while not maintaining the complete grain of the original hide, still offers durability and consistent texture. It represents a middle-range option between high-end products and lesser quality options like split leather or bonded leather. The extensive processing creates a uniform surface that appeals to many leather goods enthusiasts, though some prefer the natural beauty and rich patina of full-grain leather.

Types of Corrected Grain Leather

Horween Chromexcel Leather

The Horween Leather Company's Chromexcel tanning process is known for producing high-quality leather through extensive processing. This combination of Chrome tanning and vegetable tanning goes through 89 different processes and takes 28 days to complete. This type of leather develops a beautiful patina over time and has a dramatic pull-up effect with a soft texture. While these leathers may receive a protective finish with pigments, they will develop a rich patina over time. Industry experts note that despite being corrected leather, the natural grain remains partially visible, maintaining some of the leather hide's original character.

Smooth Corrected Grain

Among leather types used in formal footwear, these kinds of top-grain leathers undergo a correcting process to achieve a uniform appearance. Through the buffing process, the surface layer is refined to create an eerie and glass-like appearance, making them popular for formal shoes and other high-end products.

Embossed Corrected Grain

This leather category involves using a plating press with intense heat and pressure to create artificial grain patterns. After the sanding process removes some of the outermost layer, a leather grain texture is embossed onto the surface. Various options include pebble, hair cell, exotic, and synthetic patterns. Most snake leather and similar exotic appearances are actually top-grain leather embossed with a consistent texture to mimic natural markings.

Nubuck

To achieve a matte appearance, the top-grain leather is sanded and buff. They have a fuzzy texture to them, similar to suede but not as "hairy." These leathers hide abrasions effectively and are less prone to breaking when exposed to the weather on a regular basis. Nubuck is popular among shoe and boot makers because of its strength and good looks.

Split Grain Leather

Split grain leather is the next level of quality in our leather grades classification system. Durability and quality problems are more frequent in this area. Do you know how the bottom of the leather gets shaved or split? That's the portion I'm talking about. In the grain industry, that's called split grain.

Characteristics of Split Grain Leather

When examining the various grades of leather and types of leather available in the leather industry, split-grain leathers have distinct characteristics. Understanding these features helps make an informed decision when choosing quality leather products.

1. Processing and Appearance:

• Variations, scars, and natural imperfections such as marbling or fat wrinkles are all eliminated during the corrective process
• The leather surface undergoes extensive processing, including a sanding process
• Pigments and dyes create a uniform appearance
• The colors maintain consistent texture and depth throughout the surface layer
• Often features artificial grain patterns

2. Performance Characteristics:

• This type of leather is resistant to stains/spills
• Zero breathability compared to full-grain leather or top-grain leather
• Has a plastic-like feel unlike genuine leather or natural leather
• Not as durable as higher quality leather grades
• Does not develop a rich patina over time like premium leather

3. Quality Considerations:

• Represents a lesser quality compared to full-grain and top-grain leather
• Created from split hide after removing the outermost layer
• Often used as an affordable option in leather furniture
• May incorporate synthetic materials in the finishing process
• Quality issues may emerge with heavy use

This leather grade sits above bonded leather but below top-grain leather in the leather quality chart. While it serves its purpose in certain applications, those seeking high-end products might prefer natural grain leathers that retain their original hide characteristics and develop beautiful patina with use.

Common applications include:

• Formal footwear
• Leather belts
• Furniture pieces requiring uniform surface
• Products where natural markings are not desired

Types of Split Leather

Genuine Leather

Because it's a marketing ploy used to dupe buyers, finished split leather is sometimes referred to as "Genuine" leather. When you hear the word "Genuine," you automatically associate it with high standards and authenticity.

Real leather is used to make genuine leather. Genuine leather items are the lowest grade in a class of real leather products. Leather scraps from high-end products are used to make these items. When compared to high-quality leather, goods created from it aren't as appealing to the eye or touch. Products manufactured from real leather, meanwhile, do not last as long until they become worn out. However, because of its widespread availability, this sort of leather goods is affordable to the majority of people.

Genuine leather is made up of multiple grain layers of split leather glued together with a thin polyurethane or vinyl coating to give it strength and a consistent look. The rear of a product is normally hidden from view by the end-user.

Suede

When it comes to suede, it's hard to beat the rough feel and "napped" appearance. Typically produced from the hides of animals such as lambs, goats, deer, or calves. Suede, on the other hand, is flimsy, delicate, and readily soiled.

Bonded Leather

This is the cheapest "leather" you'll find. It's the hot dog of leather jackets. Essentially, this is leather dust combined with vinyl and then pressed to form a sheet. To make the polyurethane glue, leftover waste leather is mulched, combined with fiber cloth or paper, and then put over the backing using a polyurethane adhesive.

Characteristics of Bonded Leather

• Made from a combination of PVC, fiber content, and as little as 20% leather
• Since it's been artificially embossed and sprays painted, the grain and look will be synthetic leather
• Will not breath
• Feels like plastic
• Smells artificial
• Will never patina
• Will de-laminate and fall apart in a short time

Common Uses

Supplies, publications, and leather furniture upholstery are all manufactured on the cheap.

Genuine Leather vs. Bonded Leather

The bottom cut of the hide is used to create genuine leather products. It's still leather; it's simply stripped of its natural grain and highly treated. Bonded leather, as the name indicates, is made up of leThe bottom cut of the hide is used to create genuine leather products. While full-grain leather represents the highest quality leather with the complete grain intact, Genuine Leather is actually a lesser quality grade that's still real leather; it's simply stripped of its natural grain and requires extensive processing. Bonded leather, as the name indicates, is made up of leather scraps, leather dust, vinyl, glue, and plastic that have been bonded together using a bonding solution. Products manufactured from faux leather or wax canvas often provide a more uniform appearance and can be more durable than those made from genuine or bonded leather.

Meatpackers evaluate animal hides as soon as they receive them. These leather grades are used to assess the quality of the rawhide and allows for more accurate sales to tanneries. The skins undergo either Chrome tanning or vegetable tanning at tanneries, turning the raw material into finished leather. Different types of leather, including top-grain leather, split leather, and Nubuck leather, emerge from this process. As a result, it is critical that they understand the specific characteristics of the leather grades they are getting. This guarantees that they will have all they need to consistently create high-quality leather for the manufacture of leather products.

Raw Hide Leather Grades

Meatpackers evaluate animal hides as soon as they receive them. These leather grades are used to assess the quality of the rawhide and allows for more accurate sales to tanneries. The skins undergo either Chrome tanning or vegetable tanning at tanneries, turning the raw material into finished leather. Different types of leather, including top-grain leather, split leather, and Nubuck leather, emerge from this process. As a result, it is critical that they understand the specific characteristics of the leather grades they are getting. This guarantees that they will have all they need to consistently create high-quality leather for the manufacture of leather products.

Grading Criteria

For example, while grading rawhide, the inspectors will look for natural imperfections such as holes, significant abrasions and discolorations, machine damage (from the skinning machines), residual hair, and grain irregularities. The quality of leather often depends on these natural markings and how they affect the leather surface.

It's also worth noting that many major ranches mark their livestock to signify ownership. A distinctive design (typically letters or initials) is permanently burned into an animal's skin as part of the branding process. A metal band in the shape of the design is heated and then pushed into the animal, leaving the pattern permanently burnt into the hide. While it is typical, the influence of the brand on the leather quality is also taken into account during the grading process.

Raw Hide Grade Classifications

Leather Hide Grade – Number One

For example, while grading rawhide, the inspectors will look for natural imperfections such as holes, significant abrasions and discolorations, machine damage (from the skinning machines), residual hair, and grain irregularities. The quality of leather often depends on these natural markings and how they affect the leather surface.

It's also worth noting that many major ranches mark their livestock to signify ownership. A distinctive design (typically letters or initials) is permanently burned into an animal's skin as part of the branding process. A metal band in the shape of the design is heated and then pushed into the animal, leaving the pattern permanently burnt into the hide. While it is typical, the influence of the brand on the leather quality is also taken into account during the grading process.

Leather Hide Grade – Number Two

Up to four holes or cuts are permitted on a number two hide, as long as they are situated in a straight line across the hide. This would make it possible to cut around them later on while still leaving a significant amount of useable leather surface. Split-grain leathers often come from this category.

For a number two grade hide, holes should be no larger than 5" in diameter. Grain flaws should also have a covering area of no more than 1 ft. square. A number two hide grade accounts for about 15%-20% of all hides supplied to tanners.

Leather Hide Grade – Number Three

Number three hides, often used for corrected-grain leather, have five or more holes or big cuts in the hide, ideally in a straight line. This would allow them to be trimmed around later while still leaving a large amount of useable hide. A single cut or hole larger than 6" in diameter is permissible. Grain flaws or a sequence of closely spaced smaller holes with a surface area of more than 1 ft. sq. may also exist. Most number three-graded hides should have a useable surface area of at least 50%. In general, tanners will only buy number three grade hides from you if you expressly agree to buy them.

Leather Hide Grade – Untannable

If the quality requirements are not graded one, two, or three, then the hides are considered unusable for leather furniture and other leather goods. They aren't sent to tanners; instead, they go into another lucrative market for raw animal hide materials not related to the leather industry.

Choosing the Right Leather

If you've been paying attention, there are only two types of leather that are truly premium: Full Grain and Corrected Grain. These two types of leather are made from the same long-lasting grain and will develop a rich patina with use. A personal preference is for full-grain products to have imperfections and individuality, but I wouldn't trade that for anything. I enjoy showcasing the unique character of each cowhide and the dramatic patina that each client creates while utilizing Steel Horse Leather Co. products.

The multiple interior pockets of the Dagny Weekender required careful consideration of leather thickness and flexibility. We found that full-grain leather at 1.2-1.6mm thickness provided the perfect balance between durability and malleability, allowing us to create functional storage spaces without compromising the bag's overall structure. The ultra-soft leather handle demonstrates how even the most durable leather can be engineered for comfort without sacrificing quality.

Why Trust Our Leather Expertise?

At Steel Horse Leather, our deep understanding of leather craftsmanship comes from years of hands-on experience and dedicated artisanal practice. Our master craftsmen have devoted their lives to perfecting the art of leatherworking, combining traditional methods with meticulous attention to detail. This expertise allows us to not only create exceptional leather products but also to share comprehensive insights about leather grades, characteristics, and care methods with our community. Our commitment to leather excellence extends beyond craftsmanship to include extensive research and sourcing expertise.

We've developed intimate knowledge of the leather industry through our rigorous vetting process of tanneries and suppliers, giving us unique insights into every aspect of leather production - from raw hide selection to finishing techniques. Our holistic understanding of the leather supply chain enables us to provide accurate, practical information about leather qualities and characteristics that go beyond theoretical knowledge. What sets our expertise apart is our hands-on experience working with various leather grades and types in our workshop. When we discuss the differences between full-grain and corrected-grain leather, or explain the characteristics of various tanning processes, we're drawing from daily practical experience crafting our products. This combination of traditional craftsmanship knowledge and modern production expertise allows us to offer both time-tested insights and contemporary perspectives on leather quality and care.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Are The Five Main Grades Of Leather?

The wide range of leather grades includes five main types of leather, from highest to lowest quality: Full-grain leather, Top-grain leather (including Corrected-grain leather), Split Grain Leather (often labeled as "Genuine Leather"), and Bonded Leather. Full-grain and top-grain leather represent the highest quality leather options available in the leather industry, with the natural grain intact.

What Makes Full Grain Leather Special?

Full-grain leather is special because it retains the complete grain of the original hide with natural imperfections, insect bites, and natural markings intact. As a high-end product requiring minimal processing, it's the most durable leather option that produces a rich patina over time and has natural moisture-wicking properties. The natural beauty of these "cosmetic imperfections" in the outermost layer is actually considered marks of authenticity and quality. Both Chrome tanning and vegetable tanning processes can be used to create this premium leather.

Is "Genuine Leather" Actually Good Quality?

Despite its name suggesting authenticity, "Genuine Leather" is actually one of the lesser quality grades of leather. This type of leather is made from split-grain leathers (bottom cut) of the animal hide and undergoes extensive processing. While it is real leather, the split hide is less durable and of lower quality than full-grain and top-grain leather. The buffing process and artificial grain often create a uniform appearance that lacks the natural leather characteristics.

What Is Bonded Leather And Why Should I Avoid It?

Bonded leather is the absolute rock-bottom of leather quality, made from leather dust and leftover leather scraps combined with synthetic materials and a bonding solution. This man-made material contains as little as 20% actual leather fibers, feels like faux leather, won't develop a beautiful patina, and typically experiences surface-cracking and falling-apart patina quickly. The vinyl layer often delaminates, making it a poor quality option for any lasting leather goods.

How Can I Tell If I'm Getting Quality Leather?

High-quality leather (full-grain or corrected grain) will show natural variations in color and texture, may have visible pores or hair follicles on the leather surface, and will develop a dramatic patina over time. The natural tannins create a soft texture that should feel breathable, not plastic-like. Look for natural grain texture, marbling, and avoid an eerie and glass-like appearance or perfectly uniform surface, which often indicate lower-quality processed leather. Making an informed decision about leather quality requires understanding these common types and their characteristics.

How Does Leather Quality Affect Daily Use Products?

Taking The Endre Weekender as an example, leather quality directly impacts both functionality and longevity. The bag's premium leather construction ensures it can handle the weight of daily items (up to 5.3 lbs) while maintaining its shape. The natural leather's ability to develop a patina means the bag's appearance will improve with use, telling the unique story of its owner's journey. The multiple compartments, including space for devices up to 14" and a separate shoe compartment, demonstrate how quality leather can be engineered to serve multiple purposes while maintaining its integrity.

Conclusion

Genuine leather products, even in their tiniest forms, may be prohibitively costly. Buying leather goods of any size necessitates consideration. The price, quality, and appearance of leather are all influenced by a variety of factors, such as the type of animal skin used, the vegetable tanning process, and any finishing touches. From learning about grades of leather and production methods to knowing how to recognize and acquire genuine leather, we hope this information will answer all of your questions.