What is Suede Leather?

Suede is a type of leather made from the underside of animal skin, giving it a soft surface and a napped, velvety finish. It comes mainly from sheepskin, but goatskin, cowhide, deer skin, and pigskin are also used. Compared to full-grain leather, suede is smoother, thinner, and less sturdy, which is why it's valued more for its softness and appearance than for long-term toughness (Wells et al., 2017).

This guide covers where suede comes from, how it's made, how it compares to full-grain leather, and how to clean, condition, and store it so it lasts.

Key Takeaways

• Suede is made from the underside of animal hides, primarily sheepskin, and is created by splitting leather to expose the soft, napped underside rather than using the tough outer grain layer.

• Suede offers exceptional softness and aesthetic appeal, but it is less durable than full-grain leather and requires more frequent conditioning and careful maintenance (Wells et al., 2017; Sizeland et al., 2013).

• Suede is not naturally water-resistant and can be damaged by moisture, but a suede protector spray can improve its resistance to water and stains (Tomljenović et al., 2021).

• Suede quality depends heavily on the animal source and age. Younger animals produce softer, more desirable suede, with sheepskin being the most prized material (Larsen, 2008).

• Proper care involves regular brushing with a specialized suede brush, avoiding water exposure, and using leather conditioner products designed for napped leather.

Why Trust Our Leather and Suede Expertise?

At Steel Horse Leather, our understanding of suede and leather craftsmanship comes from years of hands-on work with traditional leatherworking methods. Our artisans work daily with different leather types, including the process of creating and working with suede across various animal hides, tanning processes, and finishing techniques.

We have vetted leather providers and studied how different tanning practices affect suede quality, durability, and appearance. When we explain the differences between sheepskin, cowhide, and pigskin suede, or describe proper conditioning techniques, it comes from real experience working with these materials in our own product development.

Our own product line is built exclusively from full-grain leather rather than suede, precisely because of the durability and patina qualities discussed throughout this guide. You can see that difference firsthand in bags like the Erlend Duffle Bag or the Welch Briefcase.

Understanding Leather Hide Structure

An animal hide is made of four distinct layers, and suede's identity is inseparable from where it sits within that structure. Understanding these layers explains why suede behaves so differently from other leather types.

What is the grain layer of a hide?

The grain is the hide's outermost surface, made up of tight, thick collagen fibers. When the hair is removed, the grain is the layer that was exposed to air, rain, and heat, and it is normally very solid and smooth. Research on collagen orientation confirms that this outer grain layer provides much of leather's tensile strength (Sizeland et al., 2013).

What is the grain and corium junction?

The grain and corium junction is where the leather's tight outer layer meets the corium's looser fibers. This junction combines the highly desirable top grain layer with the corium's more fibrous structure, making it a transitional zone that affects both flexibility and strength (Wells et al., 2015).

What is the corium layer?

The corium is the layer inside animal hides made mostly of collagen fibers that are more flexible and loose than the grain layer. This is the thickest layer of an animal's hide and is ideal for leather production. After splitting a hide, pieces of the corium can be found in top grain or genuine leather items (Wells et al., 2015; Sizeland et al., 2013). The corium's fiber density and orientation directly influence a finished piece's durability and aging characteristics.

What is the flesh layer?

The flesh layer is mostly muscle and fat and is not useful for finished leather goods. Leather is usually split to remove this layer, yielding usable material of various grades for manufacturing leather bags and other goods.

Where Does Suede Come From? The Origins of Suede

Suede comes from a discovery made during traditional leather tanning, when scratched or damaged grain sides of hides were found to still be usable if processed from the underside instead. Tanners realized the animal hide's underside could be carefully finished into a soft, napped material, which became what we now call suede (Wells et al., 2017).

The word "suede" comes from the French phrase gants de Suède, meaning "gloves from Sweden." The term originally referred to a particular kind of soft glove imported from Sweden, and it was later applied to any soft leather material with a napped finish. The age of the source animal affects the material's consistency: older animals produce tougher, thicker hides that result in a coarser nap rather than the light, smooth texture buyers prefer (Larsen, 2008).

Suede became a major fashion trend throughout the twentieth century. Designers such as Givenchy, Hermès, and Paquin embraced it for its softness and delicate appearance, and tanneries worldwide developed their own techniques for producing the material.

How Is Suede Leather Made?

Suede is made through one of two methods: turning a hide over to expose its underside, or splitting the leather to separate the top grain from the napped underside layer. The second method is the industry standard because it produces a softer, more consistent material.

The first method involves simply flipping the animal hide to expose the weaker side. This produces a sturdier material but lacks the fine, tactile softness associated with true suede, so it is rarely used commercially.

The second and preferred method involves splitting the leather, scraping away the upper grain layer, and exposing the napped underside. This is what gives suede its characteristic softness (Wells et al., 2017). Because the fuzzy nap is present on both surfaces of the split, this approach produces a softer and more versatile material suitable for clothing and accessories. Research confirms that this underside exposure is central to suede's characteristic nap and texture (Sizeland et al., 2013).

A lesser-known technique referenced in specialist circles is flaming suede, which uses a raw flame to lightly singe surface fibers for a distinctive finish. This is a highly specialized method used by select artisans and is not part of standard commercial suede production.

Is Suede a High-Quality Material?

Suede is considered high-quality for its softness and appearance, not for its durability. It is more prone to damage than full-grain leather because it is thinner and structurally weaker, but its pliability and hand feel are what make it desirable (Wells et al., 2017; Masoud et al., 2006).

The animal source and its age directly affect suede quality. Sheep are the most common and most prized source. Mature cows produce a coarser, less desirable nap. Research indicates that younger animals consistently produce softer suede because their hides have a finer collagen fiber arrangement (Larsen, 2008; Sizeland et al., 2013).

The tanning method and whether the leather has been split also affect suede's consistency and use cases. Unsplit hides left with a natural suede surface on one side are thicker and more robust but less malleable. Once split and softened, suede is generally considered better suited to most common suede applications (Masoud et al., 2006). Some deer hides are also processed into suede, and research on deer leather microstructure notes that processing conditions influence whether a pebbled pattern appears on the surface (Wells et al., 2017).

What Does Suede Look Like?

Suede has a soft, decorative look with a "hand" that resembles closely packed short hairs. When properly cleaned, its color and grain remain consistent, though it can look darker and less dense if the nap is ruffled or disturbed.

Suede can be dyed using specialized suede dye, and it comes in a wide range of colors from light pastels to deep browns and black. Because suede's open fiber structure absorbs dye differently than the smooth grain surface of full-grain leather, the dyeing and finishing process requires more care (Masoud et al., 2006; Sivakumar et al., 2005).

What Is Suede Commonly Used For?

Suede is commonly used for footwear, linings, and accessories where a thicker leather would feel too stiff. Suede shoes, suede boots, and leather boots lined with suede are among the most common applications. It is also widely used for luggage, upholstery, curtains, gloves, and other accessories, and often appears as an inner lining for other leather goods.

Faux suede is a separate, synthetic textile brushed to mimic a suede-like nap, but it is not the same as genuine suede leather. It typically falls short in durability, consistency, and the natural patina development that real leather achieves over time.

If you want a bag material that develops patina and holds up over years of daily use rather than a napped surface like suede, explore the full collection of full-grain leather bags at Steel Horse Leather, including men's leather bags and smaller everyday styles.

Modern Technical Applications of Suede

Beyond fashion, suede's porous collagen structure has found use in technical research applications. Scientists have explored suede as a substrate for functional coatings because of its natural porosity and fiber framework.

Research has shown that suede fabrics treated with carboxylated multiwalled carbon nanotubes and polydopamine can be transformed into superhydrophobic, conductive textiles suitable for wearable pressure sensors (Sun et al., 2023). Similar nanomaterial approaches have also been applied to full-grain leather for functions like Joule heating and electromagnetic shielding (Ma, 2022). Animal skins processed similarly to suede have also been studied as a basis for transparent, leather-inspired materials used in light management applications (Shi et al., 2024). These applications show how suede's natural structure extends far beyond traditional fashion uses.

Suede vs. Full-Grain Leather: What's the Difference?

The main difference between suede and full-grain leather is which side of the hide is used and how it's finished. Suede uses the split, napped underside of the hide, while full-grain leather keeps the tough, intact outer grain layer. This single distinction drives nearly every difference in durability, water resistance, and long-term appearance.

Suede is common in briefcases, shoes, small bags, and curtains because of its soft, decorative surface. However, it is not as durable as full-grain leather and needs careful, regular care to keep its appearance (Wells et al., 2017; Tomljenović et al., 2021).

Full-grain leather is made from the strongest, most durable layer of the hide. Crazy Horse leather, used in bags like the Erlend Duffle Bag, is one example of a durable full-grain finish that resists moisture damage and develops a leather patina over time, meaning it improves in appearance with regular use. Suede, by contrast, does not develop this kind of protective patina.

The differences between suede and other leather grades, including full-grain, top-grain, and genuine or split leather, come down to how the hide is prepared, split, and finished. Understanding these processing decisions helps predict performance, durability, and aging across applications (Wells et al., 2017; Larsen, 2008; Tomljenović et al., 2021).

For bags built to last for years of regular use, explore full-grain leather backpacks and leather messenger bags, both built from the top grain layer rather than a split, napped surface.

What Are the Different Types of Suede Leather?

The three most common types of suede are sheepskin, pigskin, and cowhide, and each comes from a different animal source with distinct texture, durability, and use cases (Wells et al., 2017; Thara et al., 2017).

Sheepskin suede leather

Sheepskin is the most common source for suede, known for its pliable, brush-textured surface. It is the lightest and most delicate type of suede. Despite not being waterproof, sheepskin suede is an excellent material for warmth during cold winter months (Larsen, 2008).

Pigskin suede leather

Pigskin is the least common of the three because of its harder, firmer texture and shorter nap. It is valued because it is the most durable suede material and holds up longer than sheepskin or lighter cowhide suede (Thara et al., 2017).

Cowhide suede leather

Cowhide suede quality varies significantly with animal age. Calves produce softer, lighter hide comparable in softness to sheepskin, though this is less common than adult cowhide. Adult cowhide suede is coarser but extremely robust and long-lasting. Research confirms that species and age both affect nap density, softness, and overall hand feel in suede leather (Wells et al., 2017; Sizeland et al., 2013).

How Do You Clean and Care for Suede?

Suede care requires the right tools and a light touch, since water and standard leather cleaners can damage the nap. A suede protector spray, a suede brush, and a few specific stain-removal techniques cover most day-to-day maintenance.

Using a suede protector spray helps guard suede leather products against water and stains before problems occur. To keep the nap fresh, use a dedicated suede brush, a dry clean bristle brush, or a stiff suede brush in gentle strokes. A rubber suede brush is also useful for lifting surface dirt and restoring the nap without damaging the fibers.

Talcum powder works well for absorbing wet stains, such as oil, before they set into the fibers. If a stain has already dried, apply a small amount of white vinegar to a damp cloth and gently work it into the affected area; white vinegar is particularly effective on water marks and light discoloration. A suede color restorer spray can help revive faded or uneven areas afterward. A suede cleaner formulated for napped leather is preferable to general leather cleaning products (Tomljenović et al., 2021).

Professional cleaning remains a reliable option whenever DIY techniques aren't enough, particularly for large stains or valuable items.

How Do You Condition Suede Leather?

Unfinished suede leather dries out faster than other leather types because it typically has no surface finish, so it needs more frequent conditioning (Tomljenović et al., 2021). Conditioning generally involves applying a wax, oil, or leather conditioner and allowing the material to absorb it, which makes the leather more supple, flexible, and scratch resistant.

Apply conditioner in straight motions across the surface in varying directions, similar to how you'd clean it. Because the surface is made up of raised nap fibers, this distributes the conditioner more evenly and prevents it from concentrating too heavily in any one spot.

After cleaning the surface thoroughly, apply the conditioner with an applicator, soft cloth, or shoe brush designed for suede. Remove excess conditioner with a clean, lint-free towel.

A protective finish can also be applied using a suede-appropriate spray. This makes the leather more water and scratch resistant, though it can add a coating that mutes some of suede's natural look and feel. Protective finishes are usually natural waxes like carnauba wax, or synthetic waxes and acrylics that aid water resistance (Rahko, 1972).

Standard shoe cream and leather shoe polish are made for smooth leather shoes and should not be used on suede, since they clog the nap and permanently alter its texture.

Does Suede Leather Scratch Easily?

Yes, suede scratches easily because it is a natural, often unfinished leather, and scuffs leave visible traces. Because the surface is made of numerous tiny raised fibers, though, scratches can often be concealed by brushing them with a stiff suede brush so the nap covers the mark. Surface scratches are a normal part of regular wear and don't necessarily mean damage (Wells et al., 2017).

How Do You Fix a Scratch on Suede Leather?

Rub your finger over small scuffs first to try to buff them out before reaching for any product. If the scratch is deeper, try applying leather conditioner to the area and buffing it out after a few minutes. If that doesn't work, brush the fibers with a smooth, suede-safe brush, which can shift the nap enough to partially or fully cover the scratch.

One practical DIY technique is using a pencil eraser or a dedicated shoe eraser gum on minor scuffs and discoloration. The friction lifts the dirt and re-fluffs the suede fibers, often restoring the surface close to its original condition without chemicals. This works equally well on suede shoes, suede boots, and a men's suede jacket.

For a wide or deep scratch, a leather filler kit may be necessary. These kits typically include a material pressed into leather cracks to fill them, often with color-matching options. Once dry, smooth and condition the surface.

How Do You Fix Tears in Suede Leather?

Small tears in suede can sometimes be repaired by stitching, using a fine, sturdy thread through small holes to patch the damage. While torn suede can be joined back together, the repaired area will rarely look as seamless as the original piece.

Leather glue can repair smaller tears. Choose an adhesive that closely matches the original leather color to keep the repair less visible. If the glue is a noticeably different color, acrylic paint can be applied after drying to match the leather tone, since it stays flexible once dry.

How Should You Store Suede Leather?

Most suede should be stored in a cool, dry, dust-free environment with moderate humidity and some airflow, which lets the natural fibers breathe. Both extremes of humidity cause problems, so avoiding sealed containers and very dry rooms alike matters.

If suede is kept in a sealed environment, trapped humidity can cause the leather to deteriorate and develop mold. In a low-humidity setting, the leather can dry out, leading to cracking and weakened fibers. If suede shoes or boots get wet, let them dry for at least 24 hours before storing them.

Insert shoe trees or boot trees into suede boots and shoes immediately after use to maintain their shape during storage; the trees absorb residual moisture and help hold the footwear's structure. A shoe horn can prevent damage to the heel lining when putting on tight suede boots or shoes. A closet or dressing room with average livable temperature and humidity, plus regular airflow, is a good storage location, and a breathable storage container is a solid option if available.

Is Suede Leather Water Resistant?

No, suede leather is not water resistant on its own. When wet, its raised fibers draw in and hold more water, which can cause water marks, darkening, and fiber swelling (Tomljenović et al., 2021; Rahko, 1972). Since suede is a natural fiber, it can typically get wet without permanent harm; the color usually darkens temporarily, and allowing it to dry naturally lets it lighten and return close to its original state.

How Do You Waterproof Suede Leather?

Treating suede with a wax protectant or suede-specific spray significantly improves its water resistance, though it will never make suede fully waterproof. Apply the protector after cleaning and conditioning the leather, then buff out the wax after a few minutes for a smoother, more resistant finish.

Acrylics or synthetic protectants can be added for a longer-lasting, more durable finish. However, the thicker the waterproofing layer, the harder it becomes to later clean and condition the leather underneath (Tomljenović et al., 2021).

Shoe care stores carry suede protector products formulated specifically for suede shoes and suede boots, and these are worth using before wearing new suede footwear in unpredictable weather. For gift-giving occasions, browse leather groomsman gifts and leather anniversary gifts built from full-grain leather that doesn't require this level of protective maintenance.

What Are the Advantages and Disadvantages of Suede?

Advantages of suede

Suede's appearance and feel make it a distinctive material compared to smooth leather and other fabrics. Its nap sets it apart visually and by touch. Because it's made from animal skin, it's naturally breathable. Research has also shown that suede's porous collagen framework makes it adaptable for advanced functional applications like conductive textiles (Sun et al., 2023; Shi et al., 2024).

Disadvantages of suede

Suede's biggest appeal is also its main drawback: it is not as durable as other leather forms because of its thinness and split structure (Wells et al., 2017; Masoud et al., 2006). The nap traps dirt, oil, and moisture, making suede prone to staining and water damage without proper treatment. Protective treatment mitigates this but doesn't eliminate the need for care, and suede quality can vary considerably between sources, though it's usually possible to assess quality by feel.

Suede Care Products at a Glance

Conclusion

Suede leather is one of the most recognizable materials in fashion, footwear, and accessories, prized for the soft, napped underside exposed when a hide is split. This process gives suede a tactile quality and visual appeal that full-grain leather can't replicate, but it also makes suede thinner, less durable, and more sensitive to water and staining.

With the right suede brush, suede protector, leather conditioner, and a few DIY techniques, suede items can last for years with consistent care. Whether you're maintaining suede shoes, suede boots, or a suede jacket, understanding the material's structure and care requirements helps you get more out of it.

For anyone who wants the durability and patina that full-grain leather offers instead of a napped, higher-maintenance surface, explore the full range of full-grain leather bags at Steel Horse Leather, including handcrafted duffle bags, backpacks, and wallets, all built from the strongest layer of the hide rather than a split, napped surface.

Related Reading

• What is grain leather?
• What is waxed leather?
• What is vegan leather?
• Methods used to tan hides into leather
• 5 effective methods to soften leather
• DIY homemade leather conditioners
• How to fix scratched leather in 3 easy steps
• How to get oil stains out of leather
• A guide to leather bag types
• Why full-grain leather bags last longer

References

Larsen, R. (2008). The chemical degradation of leather. Chimia International Journal for Chemistry, 62(11), 899. https://doi.org/10.2533/chimia.2008.899

Ma, Z. (2022). Multifunctional wearable silver nanowire decorated leather nanocomposites for Joule heating, electromagnetic interference shielding and piezoresistive sensing. Angewandte Chemie International Edition, 61(15). https://doi.org/10.1002/anie.202200705

Masoud, R., Haroun, A., & El-Sayed, N. (2006). Dyeing of chrome tanned collagen modified by in situ grafting with 2-EHA and MAC. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 101(1), 174-179. https://doi.org/10.1002/app.23160

Rahko, T. (1972). Bovine demodicosis. A significant cause of lesions in hides and leather in Finland. Acta Veterinaria Scandinavica, 13(3), 435-437. https://doi.org/10.1186/bf03547057

Shi, X., Shen, J., Zhang, J., Dan, N., & Gu, H. (2024). Transparent materials top-down constructed by using animal skins for light management application. Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research, 63(50), 21942-21959. https://doi.org/10.1021/acs.iecr.4c04036

Sivakumar, V., Swaminathan, G., & Rao, P. (2005). Studies on the influence of power ultrasound on dye penetration in leather dyeing using photomicrographic analysis. Journal of Microscopy, 220(1), 31-35. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2818.2005.01509.x

Sizeland, K., Basil-Jones, M., Edmonds, R., Cooper, S., Kirby, N., Hawley, A., & Haverkamp, R. (2013). Collagen orientation and leather strength for selected mammals. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 61(4), 887-892. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf3043067

Sun, X., Wang, Q., Zhan, J., Yang, T., Zhao, Y., Sun, C., & Liu, J. (2023). Superhydrophobic conductive suede fabrics based on carboxylated multiwalled carbon nanotubes and polydopamine for wearable pressure sensors. ACS Applied Nano Materials, 6(12), 10746-10757. https://doi.org/10.1021/acsanm.3c01667

Thara, K., Karthika, I., & Dheenadayalan, M. (2017). Renewable biochemical methane potential through anaerobic co-digestion from selective feed stocks. IOP Conference Series Materials Science and Engineering, 225, 012039. https://doi.org/10.1088/1757-899x/225/1/012039

Tomljenović, A., Živičnjak, J., Barišić, A., & Akalović, J. (2021). Influence of sampling location on physical and mechanical properties of full grain leather. Koža & Obuća, 69(2), 4-11. https://doi.org/10.34187/ko.69.2.1

Wells, H., Holmes, G., & Haverkamp, R. (2015). Looseness in bovine leather: Microstructural characterization. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture, 96(8), 2731-2736. https://doi.org/10.1002/jsfa.7392

Wells, H., Sizeland, K., Cooper, S., Kirby, N., Hawley, A., Mudie, S., & Haverkamp, R. (2017). Deer leather: Analysis of the microstructure affecting pebble. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture, 97(11), 3509-3514. https://doi.org/10.1002/jsfa.8199

Frequently Asked Questions

What is suede leather and how is it different from regular leather?
Suede leather is made by splitting an animal hide and exposing the soft, napped underside, rather than using the tough outer grain surface. This process results in a material that is notably softer and more pliable than full-grain or top-grain leather, but it is also thinner and less resistant to wear and moisture (Wells et al., 2017).

How do I clean suede shoes at home without damaging them?
For dry dirt and scuffs, use a stiff suede brush or a rubber suede brush to gently lift debris and restore the nap. For stubborn spots or water marks, apply a small amount of white vinegar on a damp cloth and work it gently into the affected area, then let the surface dry and brush it again. A dedicated suede cleaner is always preferable to general leather cleaning products.

Is suede leather waterproof or water resistant?
Suede leather is not naturally water resistant. Moisture readily darkens its color, causes fiber swelling, and can lead to permanent water marks if left untreated (Tomljenović et al., 2021). Applying a suede protector spray before use significantly improves water resistance, though it may slightly alter the texture of the nap.

How long does suede leather last with proper care?
With regular brushing, appropriate conditioning, and use of a suede protector, suede leather goods can last for years. Because suede is inherently thinner than full-grain leather, consistent maintenance matters more with suede than with tougher leather grades.

What is the best way to remove oil stains from suede boots?
Apply talcum powder or cornstarch directly onto the oil stain right away to absorb the oil before it sets into the fibers. Let the powder sit for several hours, then brush it away carefully with a stiff suede brush. If the stain persists, a dedicated suede cleaner or professional cleaning is recommended.

Can I use a pencil eraser on suede leather?
Yes. A pencil eraser or a shoe eraser gum is an effective DIY method for removing minor scuffs and surface discoloration from suede. The gentle friction lifts dirt and re-fluffs the fibers, often restoring the surface close to its original condition without chemicals.

What is faux suede and is it as good as real suede?
Faux suede is a synthetic textile made to mimic the napped appearance of genuine suede leather. It can look similar on the surface, but it doesn't breathe like natural animal skin, doesn't develop a leather patina, and generally falls short of genuine suede in longevity, feel, and quality. For leather accessories and bags made from full-grain leather instead of synthetic alternatives, explore the collection at Steel Horse Leather.

How should I store suede boots to keep their shape?
Insert shoe trees or boot trees into suede boots immediately after wearing them to absorb moisture and maintain their structure during storage. Store them in a cool, dry, well-ventilated space, and avoid sealed plastic bags that trap humidity and encourage mold. If your boots are wet, let them dry completely for at least 24 hours before inserting shoe trees and storing them.

Is suede or full-grain leather better for a daily-use bag?
Full-grain leather is generally the better choice for a daily-use bag because it resists wear, moisture, and abrasion far better than suede. Bags like the Endre Weekender or Welch Briefcase use full-grain leather specifically because it holds up to airport travel, daily commuting, and repeated handling in ways that suede's napped surface cannot.