What Is Soft Leather? A Complete Guide to Types, Uses, and Care

Soft leather is a general term for leather that has been tanned and finished to be especially supple and pliable, rather than a specific grade or hide type. It typically comes from calfskin, goatskin, lambskin, deerskin, or exotic skins like eel. Napa leather is one of the most well-known examples because of its smooth, flexible finish.

The term covers a range of textures. Smooth leather is most commonly called soft leather, but nubuck and suede also qualify. Because "soft leather" isn't a regulated industry term, the actual softness of a product can vary quite a bit between brands, so it's worth checking the specific leather type before buying.

The tanning process plays a bigger role in softness than the animal source alone. A tanner has to work the hide through multiple stages, including oiling, drum tumbling, and sometimes chemical softening, to get the supple hand-feel associated with soft leather.

What Are the 5 Main Types of Leather?

The "5 types of leather" refers to how much of the original hide's layers remain in the finished material, not the animal it came from. These five types are full-grain, top-grain, genuine leather, split-grain leather, and bonded leather.

Full-grain leather uses the entire top layer of the hide, including the natural grain, and is the most durable and expensive option. Top-grain leather has the outer grain layer sanded down and refinished, making it thinner and more uniform but slightly less durable. Genuine leather is made from the layers left after the top grain is split away, and bonded leather is scrap leather fibers glued together with a polyurethane backing.

Material quality also depends on factors outside the tanning process itself. The animal's breed, diet, living conditions, and activity level all affect how the finished hide performs. The tanning method used afterward can shift the final grade even further.

What Is a Leather Hide Made Of?

A leather hide is the skin of an animal that has been removed, tanned, and processed into a usable material. In its natural state, it acts as a protective barrier for the animal against sun, moisture, abrasion, and other environmental wear. Once tanned, that same layered structure is what gives leather its strength and flexibility.

The Grain Layer

The grain is the outermost surface of the hide, made of tight, dense fibers. This is the layer that was exposed to sun, rain, and air while the animal was alive, which is why it develops a strong, tight-knit texture once tanned.

The Grain and Corium Junction

This is the transition zone where the tightly packed grain fibers meet the looser fibers of the corium below. Leather cut from this junction combines some of the strength of the grain with the flexibility of the corium.

The Corium

The corium is the thickest layer of the hide and is made mostly of collagen fibers arranged more loosely than the grain. It's the layer most commonly used to produce top-grain and genuine leather goods after splitting.

The Flesh Layer

The flesh layer sits closest to the animal's body and is composed mainly of fat and muscle tissue. It has little use in finished leather goods, so tanneries split it away before processing the usable layers above it. Understanding this splitting process helps explain why leather grades vary so much in price and durability.

Which Types of Leather Are the Softest?

Lambskin and deerskin are generally considered the softest common leather types, followed by goatskin and certain calfskin finishes like Napa. Cowhide, by comparison, is thicker and stiffer, which is why it's used for structured goods like backpacks and briefcases that need to hold their shape.

Cowhide's density makes it resistant to tearing and abrasion, which is why it remains the standard choice for durable goods like the Erlend Duffle Bag or the Welch Briefcase. That same density is what makes it feel firmer to the touch than lambskin or deerskin.

What Makes Deerskin Leather Soft?

Deerskin leather is softer than cowhide because its fiber structure traps air between layers, which also gives it natural insulating properties. It stays warmer in cold weather and cooler in hot weather compared to denser hides.

Despite the softness, deerskin fibers are abrasion-resistant, which is why western riders and outdoor gear makers rely on it for gloves and jackets. Many riders turn to specialty retailers like South Texas Tack for deerskin gear built for daily outdoor use. That said, deerskin doesn't hold up to heavy wear as well as cowhide over the long term, so it's better suited to accessories than high-use travel bags.

What Makes Lambskin Leather Soft?

Lambskin (also called sheepskin) comes from an animal that hasn't fully matured, which gives it a thinner, more velvety texture than adult cowhide. Because the fibers are more delicate, tanneries handle lambskin by hand rather than running it through the same heavy machinery used for cowhide.

This extra handling is part of why lambskin costs more than cowhide per square foot. It's also more prone to stretching and showing wear over time, so it's typically reserved for jackets, gloves, and linings rather than structured bags that need to hold weight, like a large-capacity duffle or a camera backpack.

Soft Leather vs. Full-Grain Cowhide: How Do They Compare?

Soft leathers like lambskin and deerskin offer a lighter feel and more flexibility, while full-grain cowhide offers greater durability and structure. The right choice depends on whether the product needs to flex (a jacket) or hold weight and shape (a bag).

For anyone shopping specifically for daily-carry bags, full-grain cowhide options like the Endre Weekender or the Hemming Laptop Bag are built to handle repeated use, airport handling, and daily commuting better than softer hides.

What Is the Main Disadvantage of Soft Leather?

The main disadvantage of soft leather is reduced durability compared to cowhide. Lambskin in particular can stretch out of shape or show wear after a few years of regular use, so it isn't the best pick for items that get handled roughly.

Soft leathers also tend to cost more per square foot than standard cowhide, since the tanning and handling process requires more manual labor. That's part of why lambskin and deerskin goods are usually marketed as fashion accessories rather than everyday workhorse bags.

How Do You Care for Soft Leather?

Soft leather needs gentler handling than cowhide because its fibers are thinner and more prone to stretching or tearing. Deerskin requires the least maintenance of the soft leathers, but lambskin needs the most careful attention.

Should You Keep Soft Leather Out of Sunlight?

Yes. Direct sunlight and continuous heat dry out any leather, soft or otherwise. Store soft leather goods in a dark, climate-controlled space like a closet rather than near a window or heat vent.

Should You Waterproof Deerskin?

No, additional waterproofing treatments aren't necessary on deerskin. Deerskin already has natural water resistance, and adding a waterproofing product on top can do more harm than good. If deerskin gets wet, blot it with a dry towel and apply leather conditioner if it starts to feel dry afterward.

How Do You Remove Stains From Soft Leather?

For oil or grease stains, cover the area with flour, cornstarch, or baby powder for about two hours before washing it off with warm water and a mild detergent. For other stain types, plain water and a light soap is usually enough.

Be careful when buffing out marks that look like scratches. Deerskin in particular has natural pattern variation in the grain, so what looks like damage may just be how the hide naturally appears.

Does Lambskin Need Extra Protection?

Yes. Lambskin is more delicate than deerskin or cowhide, so it's worth applying a lambskin-specific protectant before first use. Many owners choose to have this done professionally rather than risk damaging the material with a DIY product.

Should You Condition All Leather Types the Same Way?

No. While all leather benefits from conditioning, soft or exotic leathers need conditioners formulated specifically for delicate hides. Standard conditioners made for cowhide can be too harsh for lambskin or deerskin.

Always test any conditioner on a hidden section first, since some products cause noticeable darkening that isn't obvious from the bottle alone. Store leather goods on padded hangers rather than in plastic wrapping, which traps moisture and speeds up drying and cracking.

What Is Soft Leather Used For at Steel Horse Leather?

Steel Horse Leather products are made from full-grain cowhide rather than lambskin or deerskin, chosen specifically for its higher durability in daily-carry gear. This is why bags like the Bjarke Weekender, the Icarus Backpack, and the Pathfinder Bifold Wallet are built for years of regular use rather than occasional wear.

For travelers who want a full-grain leather duffle with the softer, broken-in look often associated with soft leather, options like the Wainwright Weekender and Bard Weekender are finished with a vintage tanning process that softens the grain over time without sacrificing structure. Browse the full leather duffle bag collection or the leather backpack collection to compare finishes side by side.

For smaller accessories where a softer hand-feel matters, the Cael Coin Purse and Walcott Leather Waist Bag use a lighter-weight cut of full-grain leather that breaks in faster than a structured briefcase. Anyone looking to speed up the break-in process on a new leather piece can also read our guide on 5 effective methods to soften leather.

Conclusion

Soft leather refers to supple, pliable hides like lambskin and deerskin that offer comfort and flexibility but trade off some durability compared to cowhide. Full-grain cowhide remains the more practical choice for daily-carry items like backpacks, duffles, and briefcases that need to withstand years of regular use. For shoppers comparing options, checking the specific leather type, tanning method, and intended use will matter more than the general "soft leather" label alone.

FAQ: Soft Leather

What is soft leather?

Soft leather is a general term for leather that has been tanned to be especially supple and pliable, most commonly lambskin, deerskin, goatskin, or certain calfskin finishes like Napa leather.

What are the drawbacks of soft leather?

The main disadvantage is reduced durability compared to cowhide. Soft leathers like lambskin stretch more easily and don't hold up as well to daily wear and tear.

Why choose soft leather over cowhide?

Soft leather is lighter, more flexible, and more comfortable to wear against the skin, making it a common choice for jackets and gloves rather than structured bags.

What is deerskin leather known for?

Deerskin leather is softer than cowhide and naturally resistant to both cold and moisture, thanks to its air-trapping fiber structure.

What is lambskin leather known for?

Lambskin is one of the softest leathers available because it comes from an animal that hasn't fully matured, giving it a thin, velvety texture.

How should deerskin be stored?

Store deerskin in a dark, climate-controlled space away from direct sunlight and heat sources, which can dry out the fibers over time.

Does soft leather require special care?

Yes. Soft leather needs gentler cleaning methods and conditioners specifically formulated for delicate hides rather than standard cowhide products.

What should you do if soft leather looks scuffed?

Be cautious buffing out marks, since aggressive rubbing can damage the leather further. On deerskin, natural grain patterns are sometimes mistaken for scratches.

How do you clean a wet leather piece?

Blot the moisture with a dry towel and apply a leather conditioner afterward if the material starts to feel dry or stiff.

Is soft leather more expensive than cowhide?

Generally, yes. Lambskin and deerskin require more manual handling during tanning, which increases their cost per square foot compared to standard cowhide.

Does Steel Horse Leather use soft leather like lambskin or deerskin?

No. Steel Horse Leather products are made from full-grain cowhide, chosen for its durability in daily-carry bags, backpacks, and accessories rather than the softer but less durable hides like lambskin or deerskin.